W alking Stage One of the West Island Way on Friday bestowed some of the most spectacular views I have ever seen.
For over a decade, Jack and I navigated and recorded hiking routes all over Europe, and we have been privileged over the course of our travels, to enjoy some of the most stunning scenery in the world. The seascapes surrounding the southern tip of the island of Bute, tucked into the Firth of Clyde, east of the Mull of Kintyre and northeast of Arran, are right up there with them.
The Isle of Bute
J ust 15 miles long and 5 miles wide, Bute straddles the Highland fault line, so its head is in the rugged Highlands while its feet lie in the softer, more fertile Lowlands. Jack was born on Bute, and his Mum and sister still live here. For the last two weeks or so, we have been based here, dog- and house-sitting for Jack’s sister while she is on holiday.
Although we are frequent visitors to Bute, our visits normally run to long weekends and are taken up by spending time with the family, so being here for a whole month has given us the opportunity to explore the island.
One of the things we have wanted to do for a long time, is walk the West Island Way. By breaking the trail down into daily manageable sections, we hope to walk most of it while we’re here. When the rain finally stopped and Friday dawned bright and sunny, we decided to begin our mission with walking Stage One of the West Island Way, a scenic, 5 miles/ 8km loop around the southern tip.
West Island Way
O pened in September 2000, the West Island Way is the first long-distance, waymarked path on a Scottish Island and takes in the island’s best walking. At just 30 miles in total, the Way divides into four half day or two full day walks.
On Friday, the three of us; me, Jack, and Brodie (the dog), jumped on the bus from Rothesay town centre to Kilchatten (pronounced Kilkatten) Bay where the West Island Way begins. Following the rugged coastline, with sweeping views across the Firth of Clyde to The Cumbraes (two islands; one large, one small), we headed towards Bute’s southern tip.
A sign told us about wildlife in the area, so we decided to keep Brodie on a long lead which was just as well because less than ten minutes into the walk, a Roe deer ran along the path ahead of us. We saw several Roe deer during the course of the walk along with a plethora of wading birds; a large bird of prey that we think may have been an osprey or some kind of eagle; and lots of Highland cattle.
The path became narrow and tricky to navigate for a small section before levelling out again in view of the Rubh’ an Eun lighthouse. Grazed by a herd of Highland cattle, the soft ground around the lighthouse threatened to swallow our boots whole as we trudged towards the lovely Glencallum Bay.
Climbing the hillside beyond the bay, we headed towards the route’s most southerly point where views opened up across to Arran and Holy Isle (top image).
Continuing round to the southwest, we were stopped in our tracks by sight of a small loch, Loch na Leighe, tucked into the cliffs. Dense reed beds clustered at one end bestowed a heart-shape to the loch’s surface as it shimmered high above the coast.
St Blane’s Chapel
T he trail headed northwest and we reached the arresting sight of St Blane’s Chapel, standing proud on a mound backed by a small copse of skeletal trees.
With remnants of the original Christian monastery, St Blane’s home, dating back 1400 years, and the possibility that the Saint may have been buried here, the ruins of Kingarth Parish Church, built on the site in the mid-1100s, stand like the cover of a Gothic romantic novel. The perfect spot to unwrap the butties… if only we’d thought to bring some.
Returning to the coast, we followed the waymarked path through the Suidhe Wood and behind the Kilchattan Bay houses which is the start of Stage 2 of the Way. When we reached the A844 road, we turned right to walk to the Kingarth Hotel for a late lunch.
Stage One of the West Island Way
W e took our time, stopping to gawp at the scenery at every opportunity, and sitting in the sunshine at St Blane’s Chapel, chatting to two other visitors for some 40 minutes. Including a meal at Kingarth Hotel, it took up most of the day. A less leisurely pace would easily see it completed in half a day.
Next we’re hoping to walk most of Stage 2 – from Kingarth to Rothesay.
